The New Balance 204V “Offline Grey” Might be the Best 204 Yet

The New Balance 204L has only been around for a relatively short time, but New Balance is already messing with the formula. The 204V takes the low-profile shape that made the original work, removes the laces and turns it into something that sits somewhere between a running shoe, climbing shoe and Mary Jane.

And, for us at least, it might actually be better than the 204L.

We’ve already seen the 204V in some fairly loud colourways. “Neo Flame” arrived covered in orange, while “Fan Blue” pushed things in an equally summery direction. More muted pastel options followed, but the latest “Off-Line Grey” feels like the point where the silhouette becomes considerably easier to work into an everyday rotation.

Officially, the palette is called “Off-Line Grey with Digital Mist and Black Cement”, which makes a relatively simple grey trainer sound a bit more complicated than it really is.

Most of the upper sticks to different shades of grey, with lighter mesh sitting underneath darker suede overlays. There’s enough variation between each panel to make the construction visible without creating too much contrast, while the darker Black Cement details add some definition.

We think it suits the 204V.

For us, there’s already plenty happening with the shape, so it doesn’t really need a particularly loud colour palette. The arcing overlays, exposed mesh and cut-out sections become the focus instead, while the darker grey finish makes this feel far more appropriate heading into autumn and winter.

They’re also be incredibly easy to wear. Grey rarely causes problems, particularly on New Balance, and there isn’t much here that dictates what needs to be worn with it.

So what’s different about the 204V?

The biggest difference between the 204V and 204L: the laces are gone.

Instead, New Balance has opened up the top of the shoe and added a single adjustable strap across the forefoot. The result has a definite Mary Jane feel, although the mesh, suede and technical detailing stop it moving too far into formal territory.

New Balance points towards climbing shoes as part of the inspiration. The low shape, strap and easy-entry construction all have something of an approach-shoe feel to them, only slimmed down.

It also makes the 204V ridiculously easy to get on.

There’s no messing around with laces. The open construction creates a much wider entry point, the strap provides the lockdown, and that’s basically it. New Balance says the alternative closure is intended to improve access and breathability, but it also happens to give the 204V most of its personality.

Technically, it can be worn with or without socks. We’re firmly choosing socks. Wearing trainers without them has never felt right, and we’re not starting now.

Underneath, things become more familiar. The 204V keeps a very low-profile sole with an EVA midsole, while the outsole combines a 2000s-inspired strike path with a tread pattern influenced by running shoes from the ’70s. It’s another example of New Balance pulling ideas from completely different periods.

New Balance has plenty of enormous running-inspired trainers in its catalogue, but this goes in completely the opposite direction. It’s slim, light and unusually sleek. Even with the technical mesh, layered suede and oversized N branding, there’s very little bulk to it.

And that’s why we’d probably take it over the regular 204L.

The original is a good-looking trainer, but the 204V has more identity. Removing the laces sounds like a relatively minor change, yet it completely alters the proportions of the upper. The strap gives it a stronger focal point, the open construction makes it easier to get on and off, and the whole thing feels a little more interesting.

Just keep the socks on.